The Complete Guide to Well Pumps

Private wells provide water to millions of American homes, including many properties throughout Colorado. Unlike municipal water systems where the utility handles everything behind the meter, well owners are responsible for their entire water system - from the pump hundreds of feet underground to the faucets in their homes. This guide explains how well pump systems work, what maintenance they need, how to troubleshoot common problems, and special considerations for Colorado well owners.

How Well Water Systems Work

A residential well water system has several interconnected components that work together to deliver pressurized water throughout your home. Understanding each component helps you maintain the system and recognize when something goes wrong.

The Well Itself

Modern wells are typically drilled 100-500 feet deep, depending on the local water table depth. A steel or PVC casing lines the well from the surface to below the water table, preventing contamination and collapse. The casing has perforations at the bottom to allow water to enter.

Well depth varies significantly based on geography. In Colorado, wells commonly range from 150 feet in some areas to 600+ feet where the water table is deep. Deeper wells generally have more consistent water supply but cost more to drill and operate.

The Well Pump

The pump moves water from the well to your home. There are two main types used in residential applications:

• Submersible pumps: Located deep inside the well, submersed in water
• Jet pumps: Located above ground, using suction to draw water up

The vast majority of modern residential wells use submersible pumps because they are more efficient for the typical well depth and provide quieter operation.

The Pressure Tank

The pressure tank is a steel or fiberglass tank that stores water under pressure. It serves critical functions:

• Maintains consistent water pressure throughout the home
• Provides a reserve of pressurized water for immediate use
• Reduces pump cycling by drawing from stored water before activating the pump

Inside the tank, a rubber bladder or diaphragm separates the water from a pre-charged air cushion. This air cushion compresses as water fills the tank and expands to push water out when fixtures are opened.

The Pressure Switch

The pressure switch monitors system pressure and controls the pump. When pressure drops to the "cut-in" point (typically 30 or 40 PSI), it turns the pump on. When pressure reaches the "cut-out" point (typically 50 or 60 PSI), it turns the pump off.

The most common pressure ranges are 30/50 PSI and 40/60 PSI. The 20 PSI differential between cut-in and cut-out is standard.

Types of Well Pumps

Submersible Pumps

Submersible pumps are cylindrical units that fit inside the well casing and operate underwater. They are the standard choice for wells deeper than 25 feet.

How they work: An electric motor at the bottom of the unit drives impellers (spinning discs) that push water upward through the pump body and into the pipe running to the surface. The motor is sealed and cooled by the surrounding water.

Advantages:

• Efficient operation - pushing water up rather than pulling
• Quiet - no noise at the surface
• Self-priming - always submerged in water
• Long life expectancy when properly installed
• Protected from freezing by being deep underground

Disadvantages:

• Expensive to replace due to well depth
• Requires specialized equipment to pull from deep wells
• Cannot be easily inspected without removal

Jet Pumps

Jet pumps sit above ground (in a basement, utility room, or pump house) and use an ejector assembly to create suction that pulls water up from the well.

Shallow well jet pumps: For wells 25 feet deep or less. The ejector is built into the pump body.

Deep well jet pumps: For wells up to about 100 feet. The ejector assembly is placed down in the well, with dual pipes running to the surface pump.

Advantages:

• Accessible for inspection and service
• Less expensive to repair or replace
• Easier DIY maintenance

Disadvantages:

• Less efficient than submersibles
• Noisy during operation
• Can lose prime if seals fail
• Must be protected from freezing
• Not practical for deep wells

Understanding Pressure Tanks

The pressure tank is often the component homeowners understand least but interact with most when problems occur.

How Pressure Tanks Work

Modern pressure tanks contain a rubber bladder that holds the water, surrounded by pressurized air. When the pump runs, water fills the bladder, compressing the air. When a faucet opens, the compressed air pushes water out of the bladder and through your plumbing.

This design allows the tank to deliver water at consistent pressure without the pump running. Only when pressure drops to the cut-in point does the pump activate.

Tank Size and Drawdown

Pressure tank size affects how often the pump cycles. A larger tank has more "drawdown" - the amount of water delivered between pump cycles. The pump should not cycle more than every 1-2 minutes. Rapid cycling (every few seconds) indicates a problem - usually a waterlogged tank.

Common residential tank sizes range from 20 to 80 gallons, with 30-44 gallons being typical for most homes.

Pre-Charge Pressure

The air pre-charge in an empty tank should be set 2 PSI below the pressure switch cut-in point. For a 30/50 system, the pre-charge should be 28 PSI. For a 40/60 system, it should be 38 PSI.

Over time, air can slowly leak from the tank, reducing the pre-charge. This causes waterlogging - the tank fills mostly with water rather than having a proper air cushion. The result is rapid pump cycling and reduced tank life.

Well Pump Maintenance

Unlike municipal water users who simply pay their water bill, well owners must actively maintain their water system. Regular maintenance extends equipment life and prevents emergencies.

Annual Inspection Checklist

• Check pressure tank air charge: With the tank empty (pump off, faucets open until empty), check the air valve with a tire pressure gauge. Add air if below specification.
• Inspect pressure switch: Remove the cover and look for corrosion, burnt contacts, or debris. The contacts should close cleanly when pressure drops.
• Test water quality: Annual testing for bacteria, nitrates, and other contaminants is recommended for all private wells.
• Check electrical connections: Inspect wire connections at the pressure switch and control box for corrosion or damage.
• Inspect well cap: Ensure the sanitary well cap is secure and screens are intact to prevent contamination.
• Test water flow rate: Time how long it takes to fill a 5-gallon bucket - a significant decrease may indicate pump wear or dropping water table.

Seasonal Maintenance

Before Winter (October-November in Colorado)

• Insulate exposed pipes from wellhead to house
• Verify heat source in pump house or well house
• Check heat tape on exposed lines (replace if damaged)
• Drain and disconnect outdoor hoses and fixtures
• Know how to shut off and drain the system in case of extended power outage

After Winter (March-April)

• Inspect all lines for freeze damage
• Check pressure tank operation
• Test water quality (snowmelt can affect shallow wells)
• Verify irrigation and outdoor fixtures before use

Troubleshooting Common Problems

No Water

Complete loss of water is the most urgent well problem. Work through these checks:

1. Check the breaker: Is the pump circuit tripped? Reset it once. If it trips again immediately, there is an electrical fault - do not keep resetting.
2. Check the pressure switch: Tap the pressure switch gently. Stuck contacts can sometimes be freed. Look for burnt contacts or corrosion.
3. Check the pressure gauge: If it reads zero with the pump supposedly running, the pump may not be operating or has failed.
4. Listen for the pump: With the pressure switch activated, listen at the wellhead. A running submersible pump will not be audible at the surface, but you may hear water flowing through the pipe.

If basic troubleshooting does not restore water, professional diagnosis is needed. The pump may have failed, there may be an electrical issue, or the well water level may have dropped below the pump.

Low Water Pressure

Reduced pressure throughout the house may indicate:

• Pressure switch needs adjustment: Cut-in/cut-out points may have drifted
• Pressure tank issues: Waterlogged tank cannot maintain pressure
• Pump wear: Worn impellers reduce pump output over time
• Clogged filters: Sediment filters or whole-house filters may be restricted
• Leaks in the system: Water escaping before reaching fixtures

Short Cycling

When the pump turns on and off rapidly (every few seconds), the pressure tank is almost always the cause. A waterlogged tank has lost its air charge, so there is very little "cushion" - a small amount of water use immediately drops pressure to the cut-in point.

Short cycling is hard on the pump motor (each start draws high current) and will dramatically shorten pump life. Address this promptly by recharging or replacing the pressure tank.

Pump Runs Continuously

A pump that never shuts off indicates:

• Significant leak: Water is leaving the system faster than the pump can maintain pressure
• Failed check valve: Water drains back down the well when the pump stops, requiring continuous running
• Pressure switch stuck closed: The switch contacts are not opening at cut-out pressure
• Pump cannot build pressure: Worn pump, air in the line, or the foot valve is not holding

A continuously running pump will eventually burn out. Turn off the pump at the breaker to prevent damage, then investigate the cause.

Air Sputtering from Faucets

Air mixed with water indicates:

• Pump drawing air: The water level may have dropped below the pump intake
• Air leak in suction line: Jet pumps can draw air through damaged pipes or fittings
• Failing pump: A worn submersible pump may allow air to enter
• Partially empty tank: A waterlogged tank being recharged may initially deliver some air

Sediment or Discolored Water

Sand or sediment in water may indicate:

• Pump set too close to well bottom, stirring up sediment
• Deteriorating well screen allowing sediment into the casing
• Well collapse or casing failure
• New well that has not been fully developed

Discolored water (rust-orange, black, or milky) usually indicates minerals in the water supply. A water test can identify the cause and guide treatment options.

Colorado Well Considerations

Operating a well in Colorado involves unique challenges related to the climate, geology, and regulations.

Groundwater Characteristics

Colorado well water is typically:

• Very hard: High calcium and magnesium content, often 200+ ppm
• Iron-bearing: Many areas have elevated iron levels causing staining
• Potentially sulfurous: Some wells have hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg odor)
• Variable by depth: Different aquifers have different water chemistry

Water treatment is commonly needed. A comprehensive water test before designing treatment is essential - treating for the wrong parameters wastes money.

Freeze Protection

Colorado winters are severe, especially at higher elevations. Well systems require protection:

• Well houses: Structures housing pressure tanks and exposed equipment need heat sources
• Pipe insulation: All exposed pipes from wellhead to house need insulation
• Heat tape: Electric heat cables on vulnerable pipe sections
• Burial depth: Supply lines should be below the frost line (varies by elevation, typically 36-48 inches in Colorado)

Aquifer Recharge and Water Levels

Colorado aquifers, particularly in the Denver Basin, are not being recharged at the rate of withdrawal. Many wells experience declining water levels over time, eventually requiring:

• Pump lowering to follow the dropping water level
• Well deepening
• Drilling a new, deeper well
• Connection to municipal water if available

Track your well's output over time. A gradual decrease in flow rate may indicate a dropping water table.

Permit and Rights

Colorado has complex water rights laws. Most residential wells operate under "exempt" permits with specific usage limitations. Understand your well permit restrictions, which typically include:

• Household use and drinking water
• Limited irrigation (often 1 acre or less)
• Livestock watering

Commercial use, large-scale irrigation, or supplying water to others typically requires different permitting.

When to Call a Professional

While some well maintenance and troubleshooting is appropriate for homeowners, certain situations require professional help:

• Pump replacement: Pulling a submersible pump from a deep well requires specialized equipment
• Electrical problems: Well pump circuits can be dangerous - 240V and potentially high current
• Water quality issues: Professional testing and treatment design for significant water quality problems
• Well rehabilitation: Cleaning, deepening, or repairing the well itself
• Repeated failures: If problems keep recurring, professional diagnosis can identify root causes

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do well pumps typically last?

Submersible well pumps typically last 8-15 years depending on water quality, usage patterns, and maintenance. In Colorado, where well water often has high mineral content, pumps tend toward the lower end of that range. Jet pumps last 10-15 years on average.

What is the difference between a submersible and jet pump?

Submersible pumps sit at the bottom of the well, fully submerged in water. They push water up and are more efficient for deep wells (25+ feet). Jet pumps sit above ground and use suction to pull water up - they work only for shallow wells under 25 feet deep.

Why is my well pump short cycling?

Short cycling (rapid on/off every few seconds) usually indicates a waterlogged pressure tank that has lost its air charge. It can also be caused by a pressure switch malfunction, a leak in the system, or a failing check valve. Short cycling damages the pump motor and should be addressed promptly.

How often should I have my well pump serviced?

Annual inspection is recommended for most residential well systems. This includes checking pressure tank charge, testing pressure switch operation, inspecting electrical connections, and testing water quality. Homes in areas with very hard water or high sediment may benefit from more frequent attention.

What should I do if I have no water from my well?

First, check if the pump breaker has tripped and reset it if needed. If the breaker trips again immediately, there is likely an electrical issue. Check the pressure gauge on the tank - if it reads zero with the pump running, the pump may have failed. Also verify that the pressure switch contacts are clean and closing. If basic troubleshooting does not restore water, call a well professional.